The pre-eminent Austrian writer Stefan Zweig described Vienna’s coffee houses as an ‘institution of a special kind’.
Regarded as a ‘democratic club’ open to everyone, he wrote of the allure of these meeting places, where, with a cheap cup of coffee in hand guests could settle in, sit for hours simply watching the world go by, read the paper or play cards.
It seems serendipitous that one morning earlier this week, feeling particularly frazzled and under-caffeinated, I should finally step foot in a Greater Manchester cafe drawing influences from this very concept.
At a time when it’s becoming increasingly difficult to put our phones down, be in the moment, or simply take five minutes for ourselves, the Austrian capital’s cafe culture sounds rather appealing - as does the special Manchester cafe nodding to it.
Wedged between a nondescript office building and a souvenir shop, The Vienna Coffee House has been proudly serving up full English breakfasts, afternoon teas, and Viennese-style coffee since 2012.
Opened as an ode to classic European brasseries and driven by a love for good coffee, the family-run cafe on Mossley Street opposite Manchester Art Gallery, couldn’t be in a more prime location, but is, as I found, an understated gem.
There may not be grand pianos, palatial features or famed writers - though you never know - to be found here, but the owners have tapped into something that makes Viennese cafe culture so beguiling - a moment for quiet contemplation.
Having walked past its doors hundreds of times over the years, I never gave it much thought. In truth, I was probably always running for my next meeting, trying not to miss the tram, or too preoccupied by emails to give it a chance.
But earlier this week, in search of something to eat, strong WiFi and just a minute for myself, I decided to pop in.
It’s hard to underplay the instant wave of calm that washed over me.
Manchester’s cafe scene is perhaps best known for its brunch spots, where you might queue for around 30 minutes or more for avocado and toast.
There’s nothing wrong with that, and I’ve enjoyed my fair share of poached eggs, but it always feels quite hectic.
I soon found that The Vienna Coffee House is the quiet sanctuary I had been searching for. Simply designed, but spacious and light, there are a number of tables and armchairs to collapse into, while the floor-to-ceiling glass window forces you to snap out of whatever work-place scenario or personal dilemma you’re having on that day.
The WiFi was patchy which made the experience much better, and forced me to take a break and actually take in my surroundings.
Though Vienna’s cafes are all about whittling away the day with a large cup of coffee, this one also boasts an extensive all-day menu. Full English breakfast, smashed avocado, omelettes, eggs benedict - they have it all, and for a city centre cafe it’s not too badly priced.
There’s American pancakes, Belgian waffles, French toast and even a Vienna Burger, plus wraps, fresh sandwiches, toasted paninis, and jacket potatoes. Afternoon Tea, which I’ve heard is very popular too, is priced at £16.95, making it one of the city’s most affordable by a country mile.
Out of exhaustion I pointed to the first thing on the menu - The Full English. Priced at £13.95, it came with pretty much all the ingredients you would expect, though no black pudding, and I decided to ditch the tomato and mushrooms.
It arrived promptly and with a pot of tea - I opted for coffee on a second visit - and was just what the doctor ordered. Plump sausages, crispy hash browns, and just the right amount of bacon, alongside a ramekin of beans and two fried eggs.
It was much-needed and while it might not be the best fry up I’ve ever had, it’s certainly up there.
Pictures sorted, I popped my phone down and turned on aeroplane mode for just a few minutes to let myself actually process what I was eating and take in my surroundings.
I’ve become quite bad for eating and scrolling on my phone. Whether it’s for work or personal, I’ll usually be so engrossed in other tasks I don’t even know when I’ve spilled a bit of ketchup on my trousers, or worse, let my food go cold. There’s something about the cafe that made me sit up and pay attention.
A few days later, I was in the city centre early doors for work and found myself pulled back to the cafe.
This time, it only seemed right to order one of their Viennese coffees. I opted for the Fiaker, a double mocha with whipped creams and cherries, and popped myself down on the seat in front of the windows.
While it was only fifteen minutes, it felt like years as I watched the city spring to life. Commuters tapped away at their phones, tourists stopped to snap the blossom coming into bloom, and early worms who had already fit in a spin class bopped along the street with a smug spring in their step.
We don't often get chance to sit down and enjoy our surroundings. So much of modern living is fast-paced, urgent and mindless, but inside this understated city centre spot, there's a much-needed dose of Vienna's cafe culture to enjoy.
